Thursday, August 23, 2012
Laminating Floor boards
JohnB 's instructions suggest laminating the floors on the molds before planking so that hey mirror the inside of the planking when installed later.
So using stiff battens screwed to the molds, the laminates are clamped to the battens and glued up in a plastic wrap to save on the epoxy mess....
Cutting laminates became an easy task with helping hand from Ivor and my shop made feather board which ensure constant thickness in the laminates. This is an enjoyable process which runs much faster than I had envisaged.
Here the floors are glued up, wrapped in polythene to reduce mess - it does have a down side as the next photo shows:-
Removing hardened epoxy from the boards was a painfull, dirty messy job!
Read More..
So using stiff battens screwed to the molds, the laminates are clamped to the battens and glued up in a plastic wrap to save on the epoxy mess....
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| Batens for laminating floors |
It was an interesting stage for me as it was the first time I had several battens attached to the molds which gave me a picture into the shape of the hull, and onlookers could at last be assured it was a boat I was building!
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| Laminates cut from Douglas Fir in preparation for glue up |
Cutting laminates became an easy task with helping hand from Ivor and my shop made feather board which ensure constant thickness in the laminates. This is an enjoyable process which runs much faster than I had envisaged.
Here the floors are glued up, wrapped in polythene to reduce mess - it does have a down side as the next photo shows:-
Removing hardened epoxy from the boards was a painfull, dirty messy job!. Were I to do this again, and I very well might have to, I would use more clamps. I only used one clamp on each baten and two on the keelson, making 8 in total for each floor. This left some voids between some of the laminates and you could see where more pressure was placed on the glue up where it was clamped. Another issue showed up as by ensuring the floor was clamped tight to the bottom of the keelson, the floors then swept back at an angle to meet the batens. Had I had my thinking cap on, I would have realised that most of the floors (at the centreboard) will be cut in half and in fact following the lines of the keelson was immaterial and in fact unhelpful. Time will tell, whether I will have the re do these floors.
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| The finished floors |
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Building my jig
While awaiting delivery of my hardwoods and plywood, I took delivery of some spruce, larch and pine so I was able to begin building my jig - or strongback as I think it is also known by.
First my garage floor was very uneven and heavily sloped with a fall of around 5" over the 16' span. Apparently, builders start by building the garage so that they can mix more concrete inside the garage for the build of the main house - that seems a reasonable explanation to me when I tried to comprehend the large lumps of concrete stuck to my garage floor. So, I took the advice from GLWB and bought two large sleepers to lay on the floor, which I bolted to the floor and took out some of the fall in the fall. Then I built out the legs for the side beams. In the interest of having the three beams accurately aligned, I screwed them together and ran them over my planer together in an attempt to have them lined up.
I spent quite a while with my water level. I'd read in John's GLWB where they had used food dye to colour the water to make it more visible, so I decided to add some ink, which had been idling in my office for some years. Yes it makes for a nice visible colour in the tube, but hey does it create quite a mess when you forget to hold both ends level and black ink comes squirting at you, all and sundry! So I abandoned the water level and took out a 6ft spirit level which seemed to work fine. I later checked it with a lazer level and my measurements seemed good. However, it's not a trivial job, certainly for me single-handed nad first timer, I spent quite a few days before I was satisfied that my jig was square and level.
Read More..
First my garage floor was very uneven and heavily sloped with a fall of around 5" over the 16' span. Apparently, builders start by building the garage so that they can mix more concrete inside the garage for the build of the main house - that seems a reasonable explanation to me when I tried to comprehend the large lumps of concrete stuck to my garage floor. So, I took the advice from GLWB and bought two large sleepers to lay on the floor, which I bolted to the floor and took out some of the fall in the fall. Then I built out the legs for the side beams. In the interest of having the three beams accurately aligned, I screwed them together and ran them over my planer together in an attempt to have them lined up.
I spent quite a while with my water level. I'd read in John's GLWB where they had used food dye to colour the water to make it more visible, so I decided to add some ink, which had been idling in my office for some years. Yes it makes for a nice visible colour in the tube, but hey does it create quite a mess when you forget to hold both ends level and black ink comes squirting at you, all and sundry! So I abandoned the water level and took out a 6ft spirit level which seemed to work fine. I later checked it with a lazer level and my measurements seemed good. However, it's not a trivial job, certainly for me single-handed nad first timer, I spent quite a few days before I was satisfied that my jig was square and level.
While I had reasonable success in keeping the jig square and level, I did find the side beams warped and so I had to use a combination of clamps and windlasses, with 4' spacers in between to finish with parallel side beams. Also, even though I had taken quite some time to carefully cut the angled timbers which support the centre beam on my mitre saw, I still had some jiggling to do to get a properly aligned centre beam.
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